Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for it's altitude, but for it's beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure e ncountered high on it's flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads, and acclimatizing slowly. The mountain has gained in popularity over the past 8 years. It's common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this climb.
Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000 foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp.
The climb feels like a 5.8 - 5.9 depending on conditions but it's really hard to say because I have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000M. I would have to recommend allowing 5 weeks for this expedition, taking into consideration bad weather, sickness, and multiple summit attempts.
Information about how the peak gets its name
Mother and her Necklace , Mother’s Charm Box , Mother's Jewel Box
""Ama" means mother, grandmother or even world. "Dablam" means charm box, and is a special pendant worn by elder Sherpa women that holds precious items. The mountain has a hanging glacier that resembles a dablam and the two extending ridges are outstreched like a maternal embrace." |
