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Mt. CHOLATSE 6640m -Expedition 2006 |
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Overview: |
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Introduction By Uli Steck's While Climbing Cholatse-Twache
A little night climb
On what should have been the third ascent of the Ama Dablan’s (6814m) north east face -1700m vertical metres, Ueli Steck wisely decided to retreat at 5900m as the conditions were dangerous due to heavy snowfalls. Similarly on the Tawoc he, as he made an initial attempt on the east face’s rocky ramparts, he realised that only a kamikaze would consider it. He alternatively chose the ice on the left of the wall which was a relatively easy (for him), regular line that took four and half hours to climb overnight on the 24th April. In the morning, following 1500 metres of ice (up and down) varying between 50 and 60 degrees with a few vertical pitches judged as M5, he got back to base camp in time for breakfast …… It was the first time in seven years that someone reached this incredible mountain’s summit.....More on Request.
The 14th April, three o’clock in the morning, Ueli Steck extracts himself from his cosy sleeping bag at base camp and reaches the pile of equipment lying at the foot of the wall. As he gets into the swing of the climb he falls into a state of meditation. A state in which the climb becomes central to his existence: “I’m totally concentrated on the climb and don’t even consider what might follow.” Every day life, his partner waiting at base camp are all on another planet. As Ueli admits "as soon as I’m on the wall I become a total egoist. But that’s also why I can enjoy myself with my girlfriend following the climb, impossible if I haven’t played out my wilder side hooked on action.” It’s impossible to describe the fear one has for a loved one who’s climbing solo. It’s perfectly understandable that the girlfriend is as exhausted afterwards – at least psychologically - as the climber himself.
A magic word: psyche
The psyche. The magic word for these achievements: climbing solo at this level would be impossible without the ability to concentrate one’s whole body and mind on the climb and the next step. “I’ve always had good insight”, says Ueli. So he’s never needed to study meditation techniques …. It just comes naturally. “If you can concentrate totally on something then it remains completely focussed. I knew, based on personal experience, that I could climb Cholatse. The trick is to use this knowledge.......More on Request. |
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Total Duration Till Departure: 30 Days
Total Expeditaion Days: 09 Days
Height: 6440 m.
Location: Nepal, Asia |
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Day to Day Itinerary: |
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Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu air port- transfer hotel |
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Day 02-03: Prepared Expedition & briefing |
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Day 04: flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding Lodge or Camping |
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Day 05: Phakding - Namche 3450m. Lodge/Camping |
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Day 06: Namche acclimatize/ day hiking Lodge/Camping |
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Day 07: Namche - Phortse Tenga – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 08: Phortse Tenga - Macharmo – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 09: Machermo - Gokyo – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 10: Gokyo day hiking – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 11: Gokyo - Cho La Phedi – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 12: Cho La Phedi - Chola La pass - Jungla (Dzongla) Lodge/Camping |
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Day 13: Dzongla – Cholache Base camp - Camping |
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Day 14 –23 climbing period for Cholache |
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Day 24: BC – Pangboche – Lodge/ Camping |
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Day 25: Pangboche – Namche – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 26: Namche – Lukla – Lodge/Camping |
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Day 27: Lukla – Kathmandu flight & transfer hotel
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Day 28-29: Kathmandu - Hotel |
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Day 30: Final Departure |
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4-7 Person: USD 2500.00 (per person)
8-12 Person: USD 2000.00 (per person)
Climbing Guide cost Per guide USD 1600.00 |
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Cost includes: |
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Permit Fee {Royalty} of Mt. Thamserku 6608m
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5 nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast.
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Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight tickets & cargo of equipment
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Full board trekking lodge/Camping & Food for BC Expedition period
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Porter/Yak Lukla to BC & while back to Lukla
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Equipment: trekking equipment during the trek & base camp, 1 tent for 2 persons, dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses
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All kitchen equipment for Base Camp
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Liaison office allowances, equipment allowances for staff, flight ticket, insurance for Nepalese staffs, Officer during the expedition period
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All transfer airport-hotel-airport
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Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen helper
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All necessary taxes.
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Agency service charge
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Cost does not include: |
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- High altitude (climbing) food, fuel, Gas above BC & personal climbing gear
- Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue
- International Airport Departure Tax
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal, cargo.
- Bar bills & beverage
- Extra expenses for personal
- Climbing Sherpa
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Quick Links |
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Adventure In Nepal | adventure in nepal | Expedition in Nepal | expedition in nepal | Mountain climbing in Nepal | Trekking Peaks | Nepalese Peaks | Nepalese Climbing Peaks | Nepalese Peak Details | Mountaineering In Nepal | peak climbing nepal | Rock Climbing in nepal | Abseiling in Nepal | Snowy peaks | skating In Nepal | Himalayan adventure | adventure - Mountaineering itinerary | adventurous trek | Himalaya | Himalayas | world highest peak | Mount Everest | Mount Kanchenjunga | Mount Lhotse | Mount Makalu | Mount Cho Oyu | Mount Dhaulagiri | Mount Manaslu | Mount Annapurna, Mt. CHOLATSE 6640m -Expedition |
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