Located in Nepals Khumbu region this pyramid shaped 23,495 ft.peak dominates the skyline behind Kala Pataar (19,000 ft). Anyone who has made the trip to Everest either as a climber or trekker will remember Pumori’s disti  nctive shape. Named by George Leigh Mallory, "Pumori" apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. Used as a training peak for past Everest teams this peak now is offered as a guided climb by many different companies. There may be as many as 20 expeditions per climbing season. The ascent starts at 5,300m. In a beautiful base camp aside a small lake (water source, take water filters or barrels - where you can pack your equipment- and to clarificate the water -let sand to drop all night-). From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock hill at 5545m.
After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. To let your equipment and supply nearby. After this you will face a 500m. Elevation difference trough a 40 to 65 degrees slopes, 100m. Horizontal traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some 5m. Ice wall, one tunnel climb. Pumori has many rock and mixed climb (not to need rock pitons but take some in case for the fixed rope) and spring might be more rock falling. If you have good Sherpa, Could be good for spring season.
Camp 2- 6200m. Is located on a narrow ridge at the end of the section described before. Expose to wind and far from avalanches (but people say it has happened before that avalanches reach camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder 6500m.
The shoulder can be camp 3, but is too windy and not much gain. From here you cans see Tibet. After this it is presume that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you to a not hidden summit, but like I told you, You still need rope here because of many crevasses, Ice walls.
Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards Tibet side where the crevasses ended just before a great cliff, but in the other side the snow two-layer difference for avalanche danger. You can try Nepal side and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff and crossed the crevasse. After this the walk to the summit is only walk & you can summit Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easiest route to climb this peak and most of the expedition climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like other mountains, there are technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you, you have take climbing Sherpa and who will take to Summit. We can arrange for you summiter Sherpas for the Pumori, if you have required.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorekshep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. Around the phase of Pumori.
When to climb and guiding services
September to November and March to May are the most often used windows. The winter months add the eliment of cold and the monsoon the dangers of snow buildup. |
